A quart bottle of white vinegar and 1/4 cup of baking soda, with a teaspoon of dish detergent. Rub vigorously into the sprayed area. Follow with a warm rinse containing a generous amount of lemon juice. The vinegar solution will lose its kick in about an hour, so there's no need to be sparing or to save it.
Paul Gross; August 2013
Tomato juice drizzled over the dog in the bathtub is also very effective.
Barb Mcvicar; August 2013
Baking soda, dawn dishwashing liquid, bit of cider vinegar, lemon juice. make a paste put in baking soda last or you will have your volcano rub it on thick and right into their hair and skin and let it set till you smell no more skunk. I have used this many times and works well. Within 10 to 15 minutes dog can go right in the house after.
Kathy Bugbee; September 2013
Weasels tend to be very friendly. They are after mice, not people. We had one that moved in one winter and ran all over the house, taking little tidbits of chicken from us by the end of the winter. And....every single mouse in the house became a meal. Trust me, you've got A LOT of mice, or he wouldn't be in your house.
Weasel's have a bad rap, well, because they're weasels! In my experience, every one I've encountered has been a great little friendly mouse exterminator.
Kendall Chamberlin; December 2012
I have been giving my horses and dogs garlic powder for ticks. Over the years it has been very effective. Springtime.com is where I get mine. I have also bought it from bulkfoods.com. The only side effects that I have noticed is that they all have garlic breath. :):)
Carolyn Harris; March 2012
How to get rid of moles
Moles are there because of grubs in the lawn, likely layed by Japanese Beetles or Rose Chafers etc.... The best way to get rid of the moles is to get rid of the grubs. You can go to Gardens Alive! on the internet and find the neomatode kit they sell (Grub Away! I think it is called) Wait for a warm day in late May and apply just before a rain. It will keep the grubs out of your lawn for several years. Beth Albright; November 2011
Put gummy bears in and around the holes. The moles like the candy but can't digest it. Rachel Rose;November 2011
Garden centers and catalogs sell a range of implements that generate vibrations underground that keep moles away. We had one for several years that was wind generated, but a storm blew off the wind blades. Now we have a solar powered one that works very well. You just stick them in the ground and they take care of a 10' or so radius. Leslie Nulte; November 2011
Tomatoes Late Blight
Late Blight is a fast moving disease that can kill entire fields of tomatoes in a matter of days. It last swept through parts of Jericho and Underhill in 2010.If the growing season is wet, and late blight is present, fungicides will be necessary to protect your plants from infection. For home gardeners the only available fungicides that are effective against late blight are protectant materials, which means that they must be on the foliage before spores land on leaves and initiate infection. (Infection only occurs when the leaves are wet.) Therefore, continuous fungicide coverage is necessary to protect plants from infection. Tomatoes and potatoes are susceptible to late blight at any time during the growing season. Choose a fungicide that has maneb, mancozeb, chlorothalonil, or fixed copper as an active ingredient AND has tomato and potato late blight on the label. Of these fungicides, only some of the fixed copper products are approved for ORGANIC production, such as Badge X2, NuCop50WP and Cueva (liquid) . Contact your Vermont Cooperative Extension office at 802-656-0471 for more information about controlling late blight. And remember, all pesticides should be used in accordance with instructions on the label.
If you choose not to use fungicides it’s important that you keep an eye on your potatoes and tomatoes and remove and destroy infected plants to avoid spreading the disease to nearby gardens and farms. If possible, destroy infected plants on a dry, sunny day when dislodged spores will die quickly. If the weather is continuously wet, it is better to destroy plants sooner rather than waiting for a dry day.
Scouting: During the growing season, check your potatoes and tomatoes for symptoms of late blight twice each week. Check more often during periods of wet weather. If you find any late blight in your garden, intensify your fungicide applications (by increasing application frequency or rates) within the guidelines listed on the label. If late blight becomes severe, destroy diseased plants by thoroughly tilling them under, or by cutting them off and immediately burying or bagging them to avoid producing large numbers of spores that could put nearby farmers and gardeners at risk.
Information from multiple New York State, Cooperative Extension programs and websites:
Tina Sedney-Brown; July 2013
Wild Parsnip is 10 x's more poisonous than Poison Ivy. It is spreading uncontrollably throughout the country- Check online, it causes a chemical burn on your skin which is photosynthesized by the heat of the sun. It can leave permanent damage to the skin and cause blindness if it gets in your eyes. Mowing it is a big problem as it can reach 7-8 ft. tall. it is still contagious EVEN WHEN DRIED!! Similarly, the Wild Hemlock, which mimics Queen Annes Lace but grows very early in the spring, and has clusters of the same white flower heads- will also grow 7-8 ft. tall and is equally as poisonous.
Jacci Nelson; July 2015
Wild Parsnip is extremely invasive and leaves a nasty, blistering rash when it's sap makes contact with skin. Amount of sunlight exposure factors into severity of the rash. It looks like Queen Anne's Lace, but it's flowers are yellow. I see it everywhere, especially along roadways. Refer to the below link, and spread the word!!
Damien Larose; July 2015